| Sam Harrop MW on a nation whose winemaking prowess has been unjustly overlooked  The invention of the style known as méthode champenoise. The development of the most legendary fortified wine styles: Madeira, port and sherry. The commercialisation of the most famous wine region in the world: Bordeaux. No, this is not a list of France’s historic contributions to the wine world: actually, it’s England’s. Is that the smoke of heresy wafting from across ye olde ditch? To some, perhaps. But what of England’s current position in the world of winemaking?
In 1975 there were only 196 hectares of vineyard planted in the UK. In 2006 that figure had risen to 923 hectares, and this was up from 793 hectares the previous year. At last count the UK had 102 “official” wineries. These statistics are nominal when compared to the likes of Bordeaux’s 117,000 hectares of vines and 9,000 châteaux, but represent strong and sustained growth in English wine. Until a couple of years ago those producing wine in the UK (for the most part, in the south of England) were considered by most in the know to be eccentric, hard-working country folk, perhaps more interested in the journey than the destination. Fast forward to 2007, and the core of the industry is a group of serious professionals with a solid understanding of the processes involved in making high-quality wine on a consistent basis. Certainly there are still producers who embody the cottage industry stereotype, but innovators in the south-east such as Denbies, Chapel Downs, Nyetimber and Ridgeview are doing a fine job at changing people’s perceptions and paving the way ahead for others to follow. Bolstered by a succession of warm, dry vintages and heavy investment, the south-east of England has become a hotbed for wine production and innovation. It’s still a small industry in comparison to established winemaking regions such as Bordeaux and Rioja, but it is ramping up the growth. To date, most of the varieties planted in the south of England are cross-breeds of German origin, optimised for growth in cooler, more marginal climates. Varieties such as Siegerrebe and Wurzer lack the familiarity of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, but when harvested at optimum ripeness can produce fine aromatic white wines. With the abundance of unpronounceable French and Italian grape varieties on UK supermarket shelves, however, savvy English producers are looking to more mainstream varieties such as Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier to further improve their visibility and quality. With improved site and vine selection, higher average temperatures and more advanced wine-growing techniques, these varieties now have the potential to fully ripen on the vine, enabling the production of some very impressive méthode champenoise. The best sites in the south-east share a similar soil composition to prime vineyards in Champagne – specifically, a healthy sub-strata of limestone that adds minerality and character. Thus, it’s not surprising that with a little help from global warming and much-needed financial resources, the region is producing elegant still wines and sparklers to rival the best champagnes. Enviably, many of these top wineries sell out of their stock before the new vintage is even in bottle. Moreover, they are fetching higher prices, on average, than most wine regions in the world. So how is Old Blighty poised for future vintages? Assuming winemakers can bury the washed-out vintage of 2007 into the recesses of their minds and continue to advance wine quality into the next decade, there is no question that English wine is an industry progressing steadily towards sustained success. Move over Stone’s Ginger Wine… Cellar Limney Estate
Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2004
Price range: €15–€25 Made from organically grown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes from one of the most exciting producers in the UK, this is a méthode champenoise style that challenges convention. Like a child with stage fright, it’s full of nervous energy and character; wanting to impress, but not quite knowing how. This is its charm. At 11.5% ABV, the wine has a surprising amount of weight and concentration supported by a line of natural acidity that Johnny Cash would have been proud of.
www.davenportvineyards.co.uk |  | Chapel Down
Tenterden Bacchus
Reserve 2005
Price range: €15–€25 Dried floral notes and spicy aromas of the souq float within a cloud of flinty mineral complexity on the nose. The palate is linear, dry and extremely Germanic in style, with a chalky, salty finish that adds a twist in length. Drinking well at present, but won’t improve with age. Demand the 2006 from the winery in the new year. Perfect with fresh, lemon-doused shellfish.
www.chapeldownwines.co.uk |  | Denbies
Rosé Cuvee 2005
Price range: €15–€25 The mousse is larger than expected, suggesting this wine may not have stayed on its lees as long as classic rosé champagne. The nose suggests otherwise, however, as pungent strawberry jam flavours sit atop a crispy toast character. The palate is rich with generous levels of residual sugar, but balanced by a lovely, firm acidity that provides structure and allows the flavours to linger.
www.denbiesvineyard.co.uk |  | * Prices subject to local tax variation |